Chanel's spring-summer 2027 collection has 83 looks. It was shown on 5 October 2026 at the Grand Palais in Paris. Matthieu Blazy built it on the idea that several women live in one wardrobe. It traces how Gabrielle Chanel moved from the corset to the tailored jacket to clothes that weigh nothing.
"Over a lifetime, women become many personalities, different faces of the same coin," the designer said. The collection is "for the women within one woman" and is titled "Different Faces of the Same Coin".
It starts with narrow Edwardian fashion, with its corsets and stiff cuts. Blazy takes these details apart. Jackets show the inner boning of the corset, which he calls "ghostly remains of past fashion lives". The corset also appears with pearl embroidery, paired with trousers.
Next comes the tailored jacket, then the looser way Chanel dressed herself and the women around her. Menswear tailoring shows in waistcoats with raw edges and in shorter fitted jackets. Dresses cut on the diagonal have a low satin cummerbund borrowed from men's formal wear.
The shift is clearest in the new "tuxedo tweed". Blazy uses the name for a fabric with gathered, elasticated patterns. It stretches like a sports fabric but keeps the look of the house's tweed. The suit is lighter and moves more freely. The designer compares it to a "second skin", close to the jersey underwear that, according to editors, started Gabrielle's story.
The silhouette is deliberately unfinished. The collection has loose blouses, casually tied belts and raw seams, as if the garment were still being made. Knee-length skirts come in different fabrics, from tweed with raw edges to sheer, fine cloth.
Huge glowing birds hung above the runway, and the space looked like a southern Italian village. Swallows and swifts appear in the collection as buttons, jewellery and embroidery.
Blazy links the birds to Chanel herself. "Every step she took led her towards freedom, like a bird," he said. The soundtrack opened with Nicole Kidman reading Virginia Woolf's "Orlando", with birdsong in the background.
Tweed, the camellia, embroidered jackets and the 2.55 bag all remain in the collection. Model Dianira Hurbuscher opened and closed the show in a piece from the house archive. The house codes carry less weight: the bag has a softer shape, and there is a new classic bag with a clasp like a watch chain.
Blazy took over from Virginie Viard, who ran the house after Karl Lagerfeld died in 2019. Reviewers note that a year after his debut the house has become less predictable, and the collection feels more complete than earlier ones.
The models closed with a simple black tweed skirt suit, the foundation of the house. At the end came a minaudière shaped like a cage with escaped birds.